Rome Restaurants & Eats

Like any other major city, Rome is simply overflowing with restaurants. This isn't necessarily a bad thing for foodies like us, but we of course wanted to make sure that we didn't waste any of our precious time on food that wasn't seriously good. As with Paris, we probably spent hours before and during the trip deciding where and what to eat. We made sure to share most if not all of our food to ensure we got to try as much as possible.

Everything we ate, from pizza to gelato, was so rich in flavor and character. We mostly ordered your typical, traditional dishes as to not regret ordering something overly fancy that we might've not enjoyed. Call us crazy...

Let's dive right into la cucina romana.

Sant'Eustachio Il Caffè

This is the first place we went upon arriving in Rome and settling into our hotel, even before doing any sightseeing. It's a true coffee experience in Rome where you order at the bar (or outside at a lovely table on the piazza, but for a pretty penny). This gem is just steps from the Pantheon and right around the corner from Piazza Navona. Simply delightful, delicious coffee; make sure you pick up some to take home! Oh, and Mario Batali loves it here.

When In Rome

For the second half of our trip to Europe, we stayed in Rome! Rome is also often known as the Eternal City, which we found is quite the fitting name. After visiting this magical place, I certainly wouldn't mind staying for eternity.

Four days wasn't nearly enough time here, but we did manage to pack in a lot in our short visit. So much, in fact, that it took me just about six months to both get this post going and to finally get over my achilles tendinitis - which originated from walking over seven miles a day. Note to self: Steve Madden boots are not at all good walking shoes.

Day 1: October 22, 2013
Navona, Corso, Spagna

Day 2: October 23, 2013
Colosseum, Roman Forum, Campidoglio, Ghetto, Trastevere, Campo

Day 3: October 24, 2013
Aimlessly Wandering

Day 4: October 25, 2013
Vatican, St. Peter's, Castel Sant'Angelo

Piazza Navona

Our hotel was two blocks from this adorable city square, and it was one of the first places we saw. Fondly known as Rome's most "celebrated square," this large open area features ornate fountains, baroque buildings, colorful street artists, and lots and lots of tourists (who will gladly take your photo). We bought a painting of the piazza from a really talented watercolor artist, who put up with our hour-long deliberating on which painting to purchase. They were all so great, it was hard to choose! Piazza Navona is a great place to sit and watch the world go by.

Campo dei Fiori

I could have spent hours in this open air market just south of Piazza Navona. It was the cutest! Fun souvenirs of all kinds are available here, like dried pastas, spices, ceramics, olive oils, fruits, vegetables, clothing, flowers, and more. It's definitely worth a leisurely stroll through. We picked up a lot of things here (like truffle olive oil) that ended up being squeezed in our suitcase carry-on (and examined by Italian poliziotti at the airport) for the trip home.

Colosseum/Roman Forum 

This was one activity in Rome we wanted to make sure we did right, so we purchased a tour. We woke up bright and early for our half a day adventure, and it was worth it! We got to walk along Palentine Hill, see the forum ruins, and trapes around the Colosseum with the help of the nicest guide. We were looking forward to going down to the bottom, underground area where the animals and gladiators were held, but a large rock recently had caved in and so we weren't allowed down there. Darn, I guess we'll just have to come back...

Trastevere

We spent many hours wandering the windy, cobblestone streets of Trastevere, an area of Rome separated by the Tiber river. One minute you'll be wandering through a tiny alley and then come across a magnificent church. Small restaurants, warm colors, and hanging plants make the character of this neighborhood unparalleled to any other part of Rome we experienced. It just felt local and we loved it!

We hiked it to the top of the Gianicolo Hill for beautiful views of the city from the other side of the river.

March Madness: Best RVA Doughnuts

The Richmond doughnut scene is really heating up.

"Huh?  There's a Richmond doughnut scene?"

Yes, and it's really heating up. There's plenty of action among the traditional chains (a second area Krispy Kreme is in the works, and several Dunkin' Donuts locations have already reopened), but I'm even more excited by the local shops. Three Richmond-area doughnut hot-spots are opening or already have second locations: Country Style Donuts, Sugar Shack, and Dixie Donuts. And something tells me none of them will be a forgotten about "hole" in the wall. Hehe.

But fear not. There are even more doughnuts on the horizon. Mrs. Yoder's Kitchen returns to the South of the James Market and you can also catch them at Westbury Pharmacy in the West End.

All of this doughnut activity begs the question: which is the best doughnut in Richmond, VA? They say beauty is in the eye of the beholder, so perhaps doughnut taste is in the mouth of the eater (or something). There isn't an easy answer, and it often comes down to a second question: cake-style or yeast-style? That's been the subject of debate among doughnut enthusiasts since the dawn of time. Yeast doughnuts can be light and airy but, if done wrong, can end up spongy and greasy. Cake doughnuts are soft and can more easily incorporate a range of flavors but sometimes can be dry.

Like last year, in the spirit of March Madness I've created a bracket to determine the best place to get a round-shaped food item. The bracket is seeded based on Yelp ratings at the time of this writing. In descending order they are: Westhampton Pastry Shop, Dixie Donuts, Sugar Shack, Country Style Donuts, and Mrs. Yoder's Kitchen. I ate a few doughnuts at each just so I could give you an honest review. It was a hard job, but someone had to do it.

Here we go. Mmm...doughnuts. Homer's version of Hell doesn't seem so bad...

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Wild Card Play-In Round: ⁵Westhampton Pastry Shop vs. ⁴Dixie Donuts

I've been going to Westhampton Pastry Shop (pictured below) since I was little, so it gets a lot of nostalgia points.  I used to fondly refer to it as "the weddin' cake store" because they displayed their wedding cakes in the large glass display windows.  Their doughnuts are extra large, fluffy, sweet and light.  Their chocolate icing is some of the best I've ever tasted - so deeply rich and scrumptious (is that lemon zest I taste?).  For a sweet chocolate glazed treat, get here before noon - or you might be out of luck.  If you fancy other types of pastries, any of them here are quite good...especially the sticky buns. Oh, the sticky buns.

Dixie Donuts might have been the first great artisan doughnut shop to hit the streets of Richmond, prompting the craze as mentioned above. Krispy Kreme was technically here first, but we aren't counting that. Dixie is a great place to go for cake-style doughnuts that pack tons of fun and delicious flavors like gingerbread, tiramisu, and french toast. Come here for the cake doughnuts, stay for perhaps the best flavor variety anywhere. Most people I know seem to prefer yeast raised donuts, but give Dixie a try and you'll be converted.

BRACKET BUSTER! (I've been told that means when a lower seed beats a higher seed)

Nostalgia aside, Westhampton Pastry Shop, while delicious and certainly worth a visit, doesn't necessarily rise to the top of the crop as far as yeast doughnuts go. Because Dixie is probably the best of its breed (cake style), I'll give it the nod over Westhampton.

Final Four, Round 1: ⁴Dixie Donuts vs. ¹Mrs. Yoder's Kitchen
Ah, Mrs. Yoder's Kitchen - one of the only reasons I wake up early on a Saturday morning, drive 20 minutes down river, and struggle to find parking for another 20 minutes at the South of The James Farmer's Market. Tucked in the back corner of the market is the doughnut truck that churns out dozens of what seems like simple, glazed donuts for a line that is known to wrap around the park. I wish I had the words to write up just how amazing this doughnut tastes. No matter how amazing I tell you they are, it's going to be impossible to fully comprehend the perfection of them until you try one. But I have to try. They're extra large, sourdough donuts right out of the fryer...hand-dipped in a sugary glaze...dripping dry on wooden rungs. Pillowy soft, melt in your mouth perfection and worth that extra hour or two on the treadmill.

As I mentioned before, I'm a yeast-style doughnut fan. And these are perhaps the single greatest yeast-style doughnuts ever. While I'd recommend any cake-style fan to go to Dixie instead, I'll give the top-seeded Mrs. Yoder the nod here.

See you in the championship round!

Final Four, Round 2: ³Sugar Shack vs. ²Country Style Donuts

I don't even know where to begin with Sugar Shack (pictured below). These are some of the most delicious and unique doughnuts I've ever had. With tons of amazing flavors like Maple Bacon (and it's real, crispy bacon), Samoa (also a favorite at Dixie), Strawberry Glaze, and Salted Caramel, you'll find your mouth watering upon your first step in the door. They're big, fluffy, textured, flavorful bites of heaven, known to lots of Richmonders as "The Holy Grail" of doughnuts. The coffee is fabulous, too. Flavors change often and aren't always guaranteed, so arrive early in the morning and with an open mind! Like Dixie before it, Sugar Shack boasts arguably the best variety while serving the yeast fans that Dixie doesn't.

We love donuts so much that we are willing to drive 30 minutes to the other side of town for certain kinds. See: Country Style Doughnuts (pictured below), a no-frills bakery with a small-town feel in Richmond's East End that stays open 24/7 (except Mondays). The nice thing about Country Style is that they offered both yeast and cake options, and I'm going to throw it out there that their plain glazed cake doughnut was one of the best I've tasted - crisp and sweet outside with pillowy soft center. Country Style is a must-try place if you're near the airport (better than airplane food, and less expensive), traveling through Richmond via I-64, or just want some fantastic donuts.

BRACKET BUSTER!

I have to give the nod to Sugar Shack here. While Country Style offers round the clock doughnuts in both styles (so definitely go if you and a friend can't decide on a style), in my humble opinion they do neither better than the competition (Dixie and, in this case, Sugar Shack). Sugar Shack's variety and soft, tasty (yeasty) treats are hard to beat.

RVA Doughnut Championship: ³Sugar Shack vs. ¹Mrs. Yoder's Kitchen

Mrs. Yoder, what can I say? I actually think that if you could only have one doughnut in your life, you should get one from Mrs. Yoder. It is the. best. doughnut. ever. 

BUT! 

How many times can I have a glazed doughnut without desiring something a little more "out there"? Sugar Shack is excellent and has the best variety.

In a huge upset, Sugar Shack takes the cake. Or yeast? You know what I mean.

The Shack wins, but only by a narrow margin. You truly can't go wrong with any of these places as they are all wonderful. My tummy, hubby, and I had the best time over the past few weekends indulging in all the sweet goodness each of these doughnut shops have to offer. My hips, on the other hand, will probably be mad at me until Christmas.

Anyways, I hope this post inspired you to eat local doughnuts and maybe even to try something new. Happy eating and happy March Madness!

As for me: no more doughnuts. For now.

Key Lime Pie with Vanilla Whipped Cream

This week's wonderful warm weather (not including yesterday's unwelcome chill) had me reminiscing of beautiful Key West, where I went for college spring break a quiet vacation four years ago this month. Although I'd like to forget our loooooong 16-hour car ride down the coast, one thing I can't seem to forget is the fabulous key lime pie I ate there.

This particularly green Key Lime Pie gives a nod to St. Patrick's Day and, of course, today's annual celebration of the mathematical constant π - Pi Day!

When I set out to find a recipe, I knew I wanted to find one as similar as possible to what I had in Key West; one with a creamy, tart filling and buttery graham cracker crust. This recipe from Brown-Eyed Baker fit the bill perfectly. As if I wasn't using this pie as an excuse to celebrate more than one "holiday," I also served it to family for my mom's birthday and it was gobbled up PDQ (pretty damn quick).

PS - check out last year's Pi Day post, a Pecan Pie Sundae recipe adapted from the ever-delicious Buttermilk Channel in Brooklyn. And of course check out a classic, the chocolate chess pie tradition adapted from my grandma!

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Key Lime Pie with Vanilla Whipped Cream

recipe adapted from Brown-Eyed Baker

• 4 teaspoons grated lime zest
• 4 egg yolks
• 1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk
• ½ cup fresh key lime juice
• 9 graham crackers, pulverized into crumbs (about 1 cup cracker crumbs)
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
• 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and still warm
• 1½ cups heavy cream, chilled
• ½ cup powdered sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.

2. Make the Filling: Whisk the lime zest and egg yolks together in a medium bowl for 2 minutes. Whisk in the sweetened condensed milk, then the lime juice.* Set aside at room temperature to thicken while you prepare the crust.

3. Make the Crust: In a medium bowl, stir together the graham cracker crumbs and the granulated sugar. While stirring and mixing continuously with a fork, slowly drizzle the melted butter into the graham cracker and sugar mixture. Once you are done, all of the dry ingredients should be moistened and it should look like wet sand. Transfer the crumbs to a 9-inch pie plate and evenly press the crumbs into the pie plate. Bake the crust until it is fragrant and beginning to brown, 15 to 18 minutes; transfer to a wire rack to cool to room temperature.

4. Once the crust has cooled to room temperature, pour the lime filling into the crust. Bake until the center is set, yet still wiggly when jiggled, 15 to 17 minutes. Return the pie to a wire rack; cool to room temperature. Refrigerate until well-chilled, at least 3 hours. (At this point, the pie can be covered directly with plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 1 day.)

5. Make the Whipped Cream: Chill a mixing bowl in the fridge for 15-20 minutes. Pour 1½ cups heavy cream into the bowl. With an electric hand mixer, whip the cream on medium speed until soft peaks form. Soft peaks will form in 1-2 minutes. At this point, add the powdered sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, followed by the vanilla extract, while continuing to whip the cream until stiff peaks form. 

6. Decoratively pipe the whipped cream over the filling or spread the whipped cream evenly with a spatula. Garnish with lime slices, if desired, and serve. Cover leftovers with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

*Key Lime Pie is typically more yellow than green. To get this lime green filling color, stir a few drops of green food coloring (no more than 1/4 teaspoon) into the mix before pouring into the pie crust.

Cheesy Lime Chicken Enchiladas

I'm one of those people that pretty much knows what I'm going to order before arriving at the restaurant. Stalking restaurant menus, regardless of whether I have plans to eat there in the near future or not, is one of my favorite past times. I hope I'm safe in assuming this activity is normal for those of us whose lives essentially revolve around food.

No matter what sounds most appealing during my stalking session, when it comes to Mexican food, I always gravitate towards one dish: enchiladas. It doesn't matter if it's an upscale, fancy Mexican (Rosa Mexicano) or your backyard, neighborhood joint (El Rods, duh); enchiladas are always safe and delicious no matter the locale.

I very rarely order tacos at Mexican restaurants because, I mean, a monkey can make a taco at home...and it's likely gonna be wayyy better than what ends up on your plate at the restaurant, anyways. For the longest time, I've imagined enchiladas would be especially difficult to make at home without losing the authentic Mexican flavor (which absolutely justified my need to order enchiladas at every Mexican dining experience).

I proved myself wrong. These Cheesy Lime Chicken Enchiladas were everything I dreamed of and more in a homemade enchilada.

Using meat from a plain rotisserie chicken allows the lime juice to be completely absorbed, giving it a tangy citrus flavor that I've honestly never come across in a Mexican restaurant (I still love you, El Rods).

Like many of my favorite recipes, you can take the base and make it what you want. I like things spicy, so I made sure that jalepeño pepper and green chilies were included in my 'lada mix. I also wanted to incorporate salsa, so I threw some in my favorite restaurant style kind.

If grabbing a rotisserie chicken that's already been cooked wasn't easy enough, my good friend Trader Joe also comes through in the clutch in this recipe with his delicious, fire-colored enchilada sauce. It's thick, a little goopy, and not too spicy. I'd almost say creamy, except, it isn't...but it invokes creaminess in a way I can't exactly explain...

Once your filling is complete, you simply slather the enchiladas in the sauce.

Top with a nice heaping portion of shredded Mexican cheese.

{Momofuku} Compost Cookies

While soft, chewy cookies are typically always at the top of my must-have dessert list, there's something to be said about crisper, crunchy cookies, too. Momofuku Milk Bar is a bakery in NYC receives celebrity-grade attention for its delicious assortment of cookies, cakes, and pies; more specifically, its Crack Pie, Birthday Cake Truffles, and Compost Cookies.

Momofuku's compost cookies (also known as "kitchen sink" or "trash" cookies for their ingredient list) are made with butterscotch chips, chocolate chips, pretzels, potato chips, oats, graham cracker, and coffee grounds. Call it what you want and make it what you want, but this recipe fool-proof for making delicious, unique cookies.

uuuggghhhhyum.

Isn't it nice to be making cookies and cleaning out the pantry at the same time?

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Momofuku Compost Cookies

For the Graham Mixture:

• ⅓ cup graham cracker crumbs
• 1 tablespoon milk powder
• 1½ teaspoons granulated sugar
• ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
• 1 tablespoon heavy cream

For the Cookies:

• 1⅓ cups bread flour
• ½ teaspoon baking powder
• ¼ teaspoon baking soda
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
• 1 cup granulated sugar
• ⅔ cup light brown sugar
• 1 tablespoon light corn syrup
• 1 egg
• ½ teaspoon vanilla extract
• ¾ cup mini chocolate chips
• ½ cup butterscotch chips
• Prepared graham mixture 
• ⅓ cup old-fashioned rolled oats
• 2½ teaspoons ground coffee
• 2 cups kettle cooked potato chips (these hold their shape better when mixed)
• 1 cup mini pretzels

1. Prepare Graham Mixture: In a small bowl, stir together the graham cracker crumbs, milk powder, sugar and salt. Whisk together the butter and heavy cream, then add to the dry ingredients. Toss with a fork until the mixture is evenly moistened; set aside.

2. Prepare the Cookie Dough: In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside.

3. Combine the butter, both sugars and corn syrup in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and cream together on medium-high speed for 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl, add the egg and vanilla, and continue to beat for 7 to 8 minutes.

4. Reduce mixer speed to low and add the flour mixture. Mix just until the dough comes together, no longer than 1 minute. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.

5. Still on low speed, add the chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, graham mixture, oats and coffee, and mix until just incorporated, about 30 seconds. Add the potato chips and pretzels and again, mix only until barely incorporated, 15 to 20 seconds.

6. Using a 2¾-ounce ice cream scoop (or a ⅓-cup measuring cup), portion out the dough onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Pat the tops of the cookie dough domes flat. Wrap the sheet pan tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or up to 1 week.

7. Bake the Cookies: Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Arrange the chilled dough a minimum of 4 inches apart on parchment- or Silpat-lined sheet pans. Bake for 18 minutes. The cookies will puff, crackle, and spread. After 18 minutes, they should be very faintly browned on the edges yet still bright yellow in the center. Give them an extra minute or so if that's not the case.

8. Cool the cookies completely on the sheet pans before serving or storing. The cookies can be kept in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days, or frozen for up to 1 month.

The Big Easy

In the spirit of Mardi Gras beginning today, I thought I'd share some of my photos and activities from a recent trip to New Orleans. I traveled to the Big Easy a few weeks ago to celebrate the upcoming marriage of one of my friends. I'd never been to this city before, so I was excited to visit and see for myself what this crazy city that is all about.

We stayed in the Marigny area, one block away from Frenchman Street, or "where the locals go." For a long weekend, we strolled, wandered, danced and explored the city; and, with New Orleans' open-container law, we did it all with drinks in hand. :o)

French Quarter/Bourbon Street

Arguably the most classic New Orleans neighborhood, the vibrant French Quarter and Bourbon Street were on our must-do list. We stopped by Jackson Square, enjoyed a street performance (which the bride took part in), and walked passed many delicious looking restaurants and gorgeous buildings.

French Market

We stayed extremely close to the French Market, a market and series of commercial buildings spanning six blocks in the French Quarter. It's filled with vendors of all types, from cheesy (t-shirts, keychains) to unique items, damn good Bloody Mary's, and foods like alligator sausage on a stick. There's usually live music happenings in the afternoon. It's definitely worth a stop once or twice if you're in New Orleans.

 

Magazine Street

We loved this six-mile long street known for its shopping, restaurants, and art. Although we were in no shape to walk the full six miles, we found this area definitely had a more local feel than the French Quarter tourists. Overall it was a great place to spend an afternoon!

St. Louis Cemetery